Before storm season, test your sump pump by slowly pouring water into the pit and watching it turn on, pump the water out and shut off. Then check that the pit is clean, the float moves freely, the check valve holds and the discharge line carries water well away from the house. North Dakota State University Extension suggests making the pump run at least twice during a test. If anything does not work right, fix it before the rain comes.
Your sump pump checklist
- Make sure it has power. Check that the pump is plugged in and the outlet works. Many pumps plug into a GFCI outlet, which can trip. If there is a test and reset button, make sure it has not tripped. Do not use an extension cord for a sump pump.
- Open the lid and look. Use a flashlight. The NDSU guidance says to check that the pit is clean and the pump's intake is not plugged. Sump pumps do not have filters, but they have screens or small openings where water enters, and those can clog with silt, gravel or debris.
- Check the float. The float is what tells the pump to turn on. Make sure it can move up and down without catching on the pit wall, the power cord or the pipe.
- Do the water test. Slowly pour water into the pit, about as fast as it would normally flow in. Watch the float rise and listen for the pump to start. It should pump the water down and shut off. Do it at least twice.
- Listen to the check valve. The check valve on the discharge pipe keeps water from falling back into the pit when the pump stops. A loud thunk is normal on some valves. If you see water rushing back into the pit, the valve may be bad, which makes the pump work harder.
- Follow the discharge line outside. Make sure the pipe is not crushed, clogged or frozen, and that it sends water away from the house. NDSU says sump water should be discharged at least 20 feet from the house. Water dumped next to the foundation often just comes back in.
- Check the backup. If you have a battery backup pump, check the battery age and test it by the maker's steps. Power outages and big storms tend to happen together.
- Know the pump's age. If yours is old or has been running a lot, think about replacing it before it fails rather than after.
Once a year: clean the pit
Silt, gravel and small debris settle in the bottom of the pit over time. If it builds up, it can reach the pump's intake or jam the float. Once a year, unplug the pump before you reach into the pit. Scoop out the loose debris with a small container, wipe off the float and the intake screen, and check that the pump sits level on a firm base, not directly on mud. Then plug it back in and do the water test again. If the pump is hard-wired, if the pit is full of sludge, or if you are not comfortable reaching in, this is a quick job for us.
Signs your sump pump needs attention
- It runs constantly, even when it is not raining.
- It turns on and off every few seconds.
- It hums but does not move water.
- It makes grinding or rattling noises.
- You see rust, or the pit has water in it that is not going down.
- The pump shuts off and feels hot. NDSU notes most pump motors have thermal protection that shuts them off when they overheat.
Our sump pump problems page walks through these in more detail.
What about ejector pumps?
An ejector pump is different from a sump pump. It pumps waste water from a basement bathroom or laundry up to the main sewer or septic line. If you have one, it sits in a sealed basin. Do not open that basin yourself. If a basement toilet or drain backs up or you smell sewage, call us. We service both kinds, and you can read more on our sump and ejector pumps page.
If water is already coming in
- Stay out of standing water if outlets, cords or appliances are in it. Ready.gov warns that floodwater can be electrically charged from underground or downed power lines, and the same care applies in a basement.
- If you can safely reach the breaker panel from a dry spot, shut off power to the basement. If you cannot, call your electric utility.
- Move what you can to higher ground and call a plumber for the pump.
- After the water is gone, dry things out fast. The EPA advises drying water-damaged areas and items within 24 to 48 hours to help prevent mold.
When to call a licensed plumber
- The pump fails the water test or will not shut off.
- The check valve leaks back or the discharge line is broken or buried and clogged.
- You want a battery backup or a second pump added.
- Your ejector pump alarm is sounding or a basement drain backs up.
Why this happens around Budd Lake and Morris County
Many basements in our area sit in wet ground. Homes near lakes, streams and low spots in Flanders, Budd Lake, Kenvil, Landing and Wharton often have a high water table, so the sump pump runs a lot during spring rain and snowmelt. Hilly neighborhoods in Randolph, Mine Hill and Mount Arlington can send runoff toward the uphill side of a house. Hard freezes can also block discharge lines that run across the yard, which is worth checking before a winter thaw.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I test my sump pump?
Test it before the rainy season and again before winter. If it runs often, check it more. It only takes a bucket of water and a few minutes.
How far should the discharge go from the house?
NDSU Extension recommends discharging sump water at least 20 feet from the house. Check your town rules too. Many do not allow sump pumps to drain into the sewer.
Do I need a battery backup sump pump?
If your basement has flooded before, or your pump runs a lot during storms, a backup is worth thinking about. Storms and power outages often happen together.
Why does my sump pump run when it is not raining?
You may have a high water table, a bad check valve letting water fall back, or a float that is stuck. Groundwater can keep flowing into the pit for days after a storm.
If you want a second set of eyes on it, call or text us at 862-362-0634 or request service online. We are a family owned shop in Budd Lake, and we will tell you straight what we find and what it needs.
Sources
- NDSU Extension: Check Your Sump Pumps Now
- Ready.gov: Floods
- EPA: A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home
Micky Cipolla is a New Jersey licensed master plumber (License #13478) with more than 15 years in plumbing and heating. He owns Tucker's Plumbing in Budd Lake and works on homes across Morris County every day. Verify the license.